Відео

The most common way is to send your pump to Top Hydraulics for rebuild service, or to use the core exchange option if currently available. We ship rebuilt and upgraded XLR pumps pretty much every day. See tophydraulics.com/102-cadillac-xlr

Yes, that’s the safest way to go.

@@TopHydraulics thanks.

The cause is one of the front locks giving the signal that it is unlocked, even though it is closed. The front locks develop a little play with time and the steel lever that pushes on the micro switch needs a tiny adjustment. We are talking less than a millimeter. Here is the in-depth description: ua-cam.com/video/tu16hvKg-a4/v-deo.html Maybe you installed the rear locks a little lower than they used to be and that created more tension on the canvas, which in turn pulled up harder on the front locks. In either case, you want to find out which one of the front locks is giving the erroneous signal and bend the lever on that lock's micro switch up between 0.5 mm and 1 mm. A little is s lot - take before and after pics so that you can reverse any over-adjustments. To find out which one needs adjustment, put the soft top tool in the lock and turn as if to close it some more. If this makes the red light go out, then you found the culprit.

why the 3 parts are stuck in and cannot put it in the stacked position?

The release knobs on the bottom can be pretty tight when the weather stripping on the cover is tight. Have one person push on the rear corner of the cover while you try to pull the knob.

@@TopHydraulics in my case, my top is down and will not go back up so the entire roof roof is still stowed away with the cover over it, so I’m not sure what I’m supposed to push down on

​@@rogerford5589 The knobs can be hard to pull if the storage cover is pulling up on the cylinders. That's why I'm recommending that someone else lean their body weight on the rear corner of the cover above the cylinder that you are trying to pull the knob on.

@@TopHydraulics OK but where exactly would that be on the corner of the lid that opens up just in front of the trunk?

@@rogerford5589 Experiment and see what works...

Thanks for asking, the pump is self priming as long as there is enough fluid in it.

@@TopHydraulics Thanks for the answer. That's odd because before i ejected the solenoids to extract all of the old oil, roof worked perfectly. After the "full flush" i added oil just at the "top" mark but now the boot opens slowly and the roof never retracts. i even tried opening and closing manually the roof with the air vlve open in case there was air trapped in but nothing changed. I don't know what else to do.

Congrats on the new ride! Any feedback from the previous owner as to what happened? Since you are asking about fuses, have you checked them yet?

@@TopHydraulics Thank you! Actually no to both questions, I just bought it at an auction so I have no clue who the previous owner was. I plan on checking the fuses in a few hours when I get the chance. I wasn't sure if that was even a possibility though. And to be honest, I didn't expect a reply quite this quickly, so I asked before I had a chance to look at the car much. I will provide an update in a few hours after poking around a bit 🙂. Thank you for the quick response!!

@@TopHydraulics ok! So after a bit of poking around, I discovered that there were no fuses blown, but the previous owner had disconnected the top switch altogether... After plugging that back in, the roof started trying to open! After helping the rear bow get up, I was able to open the roof about halfway until the rear bow hit the cover thing as it was trying to fold underneath it. I shoved it out of the way and got it to finish folding down. It made some pretty awful noises in operation though, and the cover didn't line up with the rest of the body quite right (the car was in an accident, perhaps that's why?). Upon trying to open the roof, it got stuck at the same point as before, hitting the cover it was trying to fold out from underneath. I moved it through, and continued folding. The rear bow SLAMMED down, and the front went down nicely, but neither front nor rear would latch. I was able to get some pictures of some pieces that don't look to be in the best of shape, perhaps those are responsible for it hitting the cover? Or maybe something else? I could send pictures to you over email if you don't mind continuing to help me. Just let me know, thanks 🙂 P.S. the manual allen latch was stripped out, so it's not usable 🤦

Update #2 the top button is very intermittent... Sometimes the top will try to do things and other times it won't do anything...

​@@TopHydraulics The biggest thing I need fixed right now is the top won't latch. It makes a humming noise as long as I have the button pressed, but it won't ever latch. What would be the most likely cause of that? Unfortunately the bolt used to manually latch it is rounded off, so I can't latch it manually at the moment... Any suggestions?

Wow, sorry to hear about the previous owner having missed out on a lot of joy, even if it had been just a few top down trips. Congrats on making it work! What makes the seals in the cylinders fail is mostly a function of time and exposure to heat - the amount of use barely makes a difference.

@@TopHydraulics thanks for the reply, I’m in Washington so only about a month or 2 a year to heat and she was stored in a temperature controlled garage. Would the job be hard to do myself if they were to start leaking?

@@jusprankstv9278 That’s the setup for the longest possible service life of the seals in your cylinders! It’s not a question of IF, but WHEN the original cylinders will start leaking. No big loss if they start leaking in the rear, but a leak from the front lock cylinder will disfigure the headliner, so you may want to be proactive on it. To answer the other part of your question, it only takes our videos, a little self confidence and patience to do the job. We have plenty of customers in their seventies and eighties do the job themselves!

Would you mind describing the symptoms in more detail?

Congrats and thanks for sharing! Indeed, the dealers have no documentation that would show them how to manually move the top. It took us a while to come up with the method shown in the video and we were excited to share it…

Push harder and/or disconnect the hoses

Thanks for your comment, I agree that the chance of failure exists and that quarters are very tight down by the trunk lid. I'm not sure that I understand the comment correctly, though. I have separated the sensor from the cylinder repeatedly in the car and it didn't break. Of course, one has to be careful and of course, plastic can break easily. However, no new plastic was used in the video - it was all from the car in the video. Klaus

@@TopHydraulics The plastic sensor that you showed being removed from the hydraulic cylinder and the cylinder itself was from that car? I’m not trying to be negative here. I would have never known this switch even existed before watching your video. It at least guided me in the right direction. However I can say that my sensor plastic was way more brittle than this. My car probably lived a different life than the one in this video. I’ve owned it for 17 years. Either way thanks for the video. I was just trying to tell people that the area in the trunk is VERY tight and mistakes can happen easily in such cramped quarters and just to be careful.

@@TopHydraulics One last thing. Can you provide the name and part number of that sensor? I can’t seem to find it anywhere.

​@@fitfogey If your switch was brittle, then it was a good thing this happened while you were working on it, as opposed to having a top malfunction due to a faulty switch at some random point. The part number is printed on the switch: A1718207610.

@@TopHydraulics Thank you.

Wow, that's a lot of trouble as a result of a phone left on the top! It appears that the strain in the frame from not having the section between the front and middle panels latched is making it difficult to open the rear frame latch. Keep in mind that the system was able to close the latch, so a decent amount of force should unlatch it, as well. I don't recall whether the C70's frame has anything sliding in the gap between front and middle panel, as some other hardtops do. If so, then you may want to have someone push up slightly on that joint while you are trying to unlock the rear frame. With respect to the electronics, It may take Volvo software to reset error codes after you have worked out the mechanical problem. Maybe you will get lucky and the current errors will not affect the top operation later. What you want to avoid is creating more readouts that are illogical to the controller. One of those readouts is created by moving the rear locks with the 4mm Allen wrench driven worm gear, which bypasses the readout for the motor on that leg. Thus, do not try to operate the top with the pump until after it has been closed again manually (after resolving the mechanical issues). I would stay away from the Volvo dealer until you are down to electronics problems, as you don't want to pay for their learning curve.

You won't get much movement out of the front panel without the rear panel being unlocked. However, maybe that'll be enough for your purposes. Otherwise, you are best of waiting for the key or finding a way to bypass the key.

@@TopHydraulics thank you

@@TopHydraulics Have now watched all video parts to your fabulous work. One final question. After following your directions, specifically releasing the "pressure release" cable, how do we reverse the pressure release cable? There is a "button" on the hydraulic motor and I'm wondering if that needs to be pressed back in at some point, but what point? thanks ever so much for your help!!

@@LoneStarMini The release cable for emergency operation allows a brass button to pop up on the pump, which is normally contained by the clasp that the cable is pulling. Once you have access to the pump from the trunk area, you can push this button back in far enough for the clasp to secure it again.

@@TopHydraulics thank you… should this brass button be pressed back in place after all cylinders have been pushed back to original state?

Early model years have the manual unlock hiding in the front console.

@@TopHydraulics then you for the response. I think I found it at the bottom of the “cd” holder. However my daughter is out of town and has the key… my luck

We don’t, but we will put it on our list of videos to make. Our video on removing the main lift cylinders shows how to take the sensors out, though, and that leaves you with connecting the wires as per instructions on our package with the sensor in it.

@@TopHydraulics Thanks, that tutorial helped me out.

@@bescuit Glad to hear that, thanks for sharing!

This video should give you the tools to find out why the rear windows don’t go . Hint: forward trunk latches. How far did you get with following the video and testing switches?